New J&K

August 5, 2019 changed politics, geography and landscape of Jammu and Kashmir as two new Union Territories were created in India. This political stroke was totally astonishing for Kashmiris while Jammuites (mostly BJP supporters) applauded the move. For seven decades J&K had special status and today it has a special spot on the Indian map. This bifurcation was followed by a lockdown, internet blockade and arrests/detention of politicians. While much of it was hurting people in Kashmir, BJP supporters welcomed it with cheer in Jammu.

In short, it was a watershed moment. A year down the line both regions witnessed changes brought by changed constitutional positions. Although terror related incidents continued in Kashmir and there were political casualties also but militants in large number were killed, separatists groups appear to have disintegrated. Similarly, back to village programmes; BDC polls; reservation for Paharis and people from International Border in Jammu were some steps taken to strengthen social and democratic institutions.

Nevertheless, the first year of UT status has raised new concerns and apprehensions in the minds of Jammuites. Before this constitutional reform was done there was a perception that Jammu won’t suffer due to it. However, since then this perception turned opposite and started haunting businessmen of Jammu. With absence of tourists, its impact was clearly visible on the empty shops in main markets of Jammu which are entirely dependent on tourists. In addition to it, the story of the people in Jammu dealing with Kashmiri shawls, papier-mache products and wood carvings became the same because they all were left without sellers.  

The picture of fruit and dry fruit sellers in Jammu, too, was not rosy. Last year in October, we witnessed how after militant attacks on apple traders and on truck drivers coming into Kashmir, Jammu fruit dealers faced grim situations as their investment of crores of rupees got stuck in Kashmir. Moreover, hotel and taxi owners are another segment which has hit ground and continue to suffer for the last one year. Jammu region again celebrated when toll on imports from other states was abolished. Like other things, business houses in Jammu expected prosperity from this abolition. On the contrary, they have started developing a fear of losing businesses in the long term because of their inability to compete with cheaper goods coming from outside. Suspension of high-speed internet killed many businesses. The internet connectivity was restored in the shape of 2G services but that didn’t help the entrepreneurs.  

In comparison to Jammu such things lasted long in Kashmir. Most of the restrictions were lifted in Jammu much earlier than Kashmir. But it’s quite clear that there is high interdependence between both regions because even after a year common man’s life continues to suffer on both sides. With new domicile rules under the Jammu and Kashmir Reorganization (Adaptation of State Laws) Order, 2020 another debate has risen here that in years to come people from the whole country will dispossess locals of many opportunities. Besides, this debate has created a sense of insecurity in youth as they apprehend that outsiders will also stake a claim on seats in professional colleges and jobs.  BJP understands all these new apprehensions and is working hard to smoothen it in Jammu. BJP could now bank on the delimitation process which may be completed by next year. The fresh voters in the shape of West Pakistan refugees, Gorkhas, Valmikis and other new domiciles who have gained rights because of the abrogation of special status may rescue BJP politically.

In this new J&K, the opposition parties aren’t visible and they haven’t responded well to popular issues. Things are clear that these parties are facing challenges in the post Article 370 era. Politically Congress is facing leadership crisis in J&K as its leaders are switching sides, Mehbooba Mufti is still defiant and continues to face PSA, NC has made clear that revoking Article 370 didn’t usher in any development in J&K and hence appears to continue its fight in court. The Bukhari led Apni Party isn’t being given any importance by local bureaucracy which they themselves have made clear through their anti-government press conference recently. In total, J&K in the past one year has seen many good, bad changes socially and politically. And now, the whole situation is in the freeze mode due to the corona pandemic. Considering all circumstances BJP still is in full control and command. There is hanging hope from them to fix the old wrongs or it won’t go on long just by taking shields of abrogation.

Unexplored Heritage: Traditional Route To Vaishno Devi Shrine

The famous Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine in Jammu’s Katra town is visited by more than ten million pilgrims each year. The economy of Jammu region is linked with this cave shrine and hospitality industry as well as many small traders, taxi operators, shopkeepers, pony wala, palki walas and vendors earn their livelihood from pilgrims visiting the shrine. However, during COVID-19 lockdown all the religious shrines in India were closed and now after staying shut for almost 3 months many shrines have reopened for the public. On the contrary, Vaishno Devi Shrine hasn’t opened yet and its impact these days is even visible on the empty shops of Jammu and Katra. 

While across the world coronavirus is being discussed and similarly in India along with it traditional ways of living, eating and old habits are also being propagated as a way to beat coronavirus. As we are thinking of a post-lockdown India so interestingly here in Jammu it would be the right time to highlight the traditional route to holy cave shrine from Jammu to Katra. Most of the pilgrims visiting the shrine aren’t aware of this route and even the new generation of Jammuites lack its idea and importance. There was a time when this route was used by the devotees as the preferred primary route to reach the holy shrine. As times changed and with the construction of National Highway, a faster and more convenient motorable route to Katra is being preferred these days. This route starts from Kolkandoli temple (first darshan) Nagrota passing through Jagti – Pangali - Bamyal of Jammu district climbing up to Deva Mai temple of Reasi district and then to Nomain village 4 km short of Katra. Nowadays, this route is used only by local travelers such as nomads, businessmen from surrounding villages, ponywalla’s and pithoos etc who live in nearby villages and travel to Katra to earn their livelihood. 

Besides, this route is very important from a heritage point of view. It is a treasure of built, natural and cultural heritage which lies unexplored and ignored. On this route various villages showcase the rural life with natural beauty of indigenous trees, streams, nallahs, walkways, hilly as well as small plain meadows, agriculture and horticulture produce. Interestingly, many remnants of the pre-partition era can be found on this route. While preparing vision document on this route for Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) by Jammu chapter we found temples, stepwells, pacca talabs (ponds), bowlies, resting shelters, drinking and bathing water sources, abandoned sarais etc constructed by the devotees who use to come from Lahore, Delhi and other parts of the country. We were also told by locals that the devotees on this route used to move in large groups and most of the infrastructure was built by them for their annual pilgrimage. The famous temples of historical value enroute are:

a) Temple at village Pangali with sarai shed, step well with chambers to store water, large size pond.

b) Shiv Temple at village Thandapani.

c) Kalika Mata Temple at village Gundla.

d) Remains of Thakurdwara at village Bhamyal near Bus Stand

e) Shiv Temple with wall painting at Upper Bhamyal.

f) Oli Temple at tail end of District Jammu(Bhamyal)

g) Shiv Temple with sarai building at Phayadya falling in Reasi district ( 500 mtrs from Oli Temple) 

h) Deva Mai ji Temple at hilltop of Nomain village 

After visiting this route, we were sure that the historical significance of this route with abundance of heritage points is likely to attract millions of pilgrims once it is promoted and developed on priority by the government, shrine board and host communities. This entire heritage should be conserved, preserved and restored to its pristine glory. The villages along 22km road are likely to get economic thrust and day won’t be far when this entire area could flourish as a part of the yatra from Nagrota to Katra to Bhawan. It would also reduce the travel time as this route is 5 km short from the existing NH road to Katra. 

It is the value system which acts as the backbone for any healthy society. For these immediate steps to conserve this heritage should be taken as because of neglect shown to this entire area all things have taken bad shape. With the help of conservation steps we would be able to make our future generations aware about our traditional values. These rich heritage components have historical, architectural, social/ associational values which were given to us by the pilgrims visiting the holy cave shrine. The developmental plans as per the requirement of the pilgrims with self-sustained modules without compromising the original architectural features and designs should be taken up. At the same time, emphasis should be on local materials to preserve heritage character by minimizing use of cement and concrete with uniform facade, colour schemes for host community in association with departments such as Rural Development Department, Forests, Environment, Jal Shakti, Health, PWD, PDD, Flood Control and Irrigation, Housing and Urban Development Department, Housing Board, Jammu Development Authority, Agriculture, Horticulture, Handloom, Handicrafts and finally the Tourism and Culture Department. This route is old but could make new fortunes for numerous people once it becomes a destination for tourists who want to experience rural life. The rural fairs, festivals, customs, rituals and celebrations could become added attractions along with traditional ethnic foods of the area.

The master plan as well as conservation plans with an integrated developmental approach needs to be prepared through the expert agencies with uniform patterns for all the built-up areas by the respective departments. Either JDA or RDD should be made as nodal departments to prepare the development plan. It is worthwhile to mention here that as part of nationwide efforts of INTACH to protect heritage of the nation, INTACH Jammu chapter submitted copies of prepared vision document to the authorities through the then MLA Nagrota constituency for advice to concerned authorities in the government as well as in Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board for revival of this traditional route. This crucial work should be started and completed within a fixed deadline in order to make this route more enjoyable. Post lock down world would be different and we hope for this route having tremendous tourism potential with a ready-made market which is more than any other pilgrimage route of the region.

Co Author SM SAHNI (KAS (Retd), Convenor INTACH, Jammu Chapter)